Saturday, June 22, 2013

Cannoli's!

We were invited to a 40th last night and brought cannoli's. Better than a birthday cake anyway, in my humble opinion! So, at this point, before I really get rolling, I will throw out a disclaimer. I bought the shells. Yes, yes, it's true. Actually, I admit, I usually buy cannoli shells. Why? You may ask...Especially after all my preaching about homemade! Here it is. Bought shells, are good AND I don't like frying in the house. I know, I know, frying can be an integral part of cooking, but I find it messy, uber-unhealthy, and smelly. Ok, I admit, there are few things better than fried dough...However, I still don't like frying in the house. Take zeppoli ("zeppole" depending on where you look), for instance (italian donuts). They are ridiculously good. Surely, I digress...I have made cannoli shells, and they are a good amount of work and you must have good metal cannoli frying tubes, etc. Here's a cannoli shell recipe for the brave:

Ingredients
Shells:
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 egg yolk
1/2 cup dry white wine

In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, sugar and salt. Work the butter pieces into the flour with your fingers until the mixture becomes coarse and sandy. Add the egg yolk and the white wine and mix until it becomes a smooth dough. Spread a piece of plastic wrap on a flat surface and place the dough in the center. Wrap the plastic loosely around it and press the dough to fill the gap. Flattening the dough will mean less rolling later. Let it rest in the fridge for a few minutes while you make the filling.

In a medium pot with a heavy bottom, heat the canola oil to 360 degrees F. Meanwhile, sift an even layer of flour on a flat surface. Flour a rolling pin. Roll the dough until it is very thin (about 1/8-inch thick). Cut the dough into fourths and work in small batches. Use any glass or small bowl that has a 3-to-4-inch diameter. Cut rounds, tracing around each one to assure the dough has been fully cut. You should have about 24 circles. Wrap each circle around a cannoli mold. Use a little of the egg wash on the edge of each round to seal it shut and to assure it won't slide or fall off the mold before pressing it closed over the mold. Flare the edges out slightly from the mold. Flaring will allow the oil to penetrate each cannoli shell as they fry. Use a pair of tongs to hold the edge of the mold as you submerge and fry the shell in the oil until crispy, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the oil, and holding the mold in one had with your tongs, gently grip the shell in your other hand with a kitchen towel and carefully slide it off the mold. Set aside to cool. Repeat with all of the circles.
Makes about 2 dozen.


Here in the south, it's tough to find a good cannoli and I buy my shells from a restaurant supply store (they have to special order them as there's apparently not much of a demand). The cream, though, now that's a different story, down here it tastes like frosting, yuck. So I make it like it's supposed to taste. I remember going with my grandma to Tripoli Bakery in Lawrence, MA (http://tripolibakery.com/) it was amazing. When time was short, we would get cannoli's, assorted cookies, bread, etc. The smells alone were worth the trip. Again, a bit of a rabbit trail, sorry. Back to the cream. I like it simple. As usual, though, play with the recipe, make it your way. Here's my recipe:

2 lbs ricotta (whole milk works the best) 
1 1/2 C powdered sugar
1/2 C mini chocolate chipe (optional)
Makes about 3 dozen small cannoli's.

Hang the ricotta in a cheese cloth, in a colander overnight in the refrigerator. Once that's done, mix in the powdered sugar and chips. I do it by hand so the ricotta doesn't break down too much. If you don't want the chips, leave them out. Citron (candies citrus peels) is a nice touch in lieu of the chocolate, or even just a little lemon zest. Sometimes I do just the ricotta and sugar, I like the very simple flavor. Here are a few pics of our cannoli making with my little helper, Anthony.

The filling


Me and my helper

Finito!


Actually, almost "finito". Right before serving, I fill them and then dust with powdered. They taste great the next day, but soggy shells are not quite as appetizing.




Buon Appetito! 




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