Friday, June 28, 2013

Pillows of love...

Ok, so just reading the title, this post could go in several different directions...however, it's food related, I promise. I have poured over several gnocchi recipes in hopes of discovering the perfect, light, flavorful, pillow of dough. I believe I have found it. I have been experimenting as well, and while the previous posts about gnocchi have been flavorful, and very edible, they were still a it dense. My dear wife had tried gnocchi while on a business trip that she said were the lightest and best she had ever had, therefore, I had to accept that "challenge'. So, here we go:

This recipe starts out much like a choux pastry, for those that have made cream puffs or eclairs, or read the post "If the choux fits".


Ingredients:

1 1/2 C water
12 T butter
2 t salt (I used sea salt)
2 C AP flour
3/4 C Ricotta salata (or feta, or queso fresco)

(At this point, I will insert that I originally adapted the recipe from http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Herb-Gnocchi-231342, but as is my nature, was forced to make a few changes. The original recipe calls for shredded ComtĂ© or Emmentaler cheese, herbs, mustard, etc. I am sure that recipe is amazing, however, I wanted to season my gnocchi differently and after boiling...feel free to follow said recipe...)

Preparation:


Set up a heavy-duty mixer with the paddle attachment. Have all the ingredients ready before you begin cooking.

Combine the water, butter, and the 2 teaspoons salt in a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium, add the flour all at once, and stir rapidly with a stiff heatproof or wooden spoon until the dough pulls away from the sides of the pan and the bottom of the pan is clean, with no dough sticking to it. The dough should be glossy and smooth but still moist.
Enough moisture must evaporate from the dough to allow it to absorb more fat when the eggs are added: Continue to stir for about 5 minutes, adjusting the heat as necessary to prevent the dough from coloring. A thin coating will form on the bottom and sides of the pan. When enough moisture has evaporated, steam will rise from the dough and the aroma of cooked flour will be noticeable. Immediately transfer the dough to the mixer bowl. Add  additional salt if needed (it's fine to taste at this point, since it's partially cooked and no aggs have been added yet). Mix for a few seconds to incorporate the ingredients and release some of the heat, then add the cheese. With the mixer on the lowest speed, add 3 eggs, one at a time, beating until each egg is completely incorporated before adding the next one. Increase the speed to medium and add another 2 eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each one. Turn off the machine. Lift some of the dough on a rubber spatula, then turn the spatula to let it run off: It should move down the spatula very slowly; if it doesn't move at all or is very dry and just falls off in a clump, beat in the additional egg.

Place the dough in a large pastry bag fitted with a 5/8-inch plain tip (or no tip at all) and let it rest for about 30 minutes at room temperature. (If you have only a small pastry bag, fill it with half the dough two times.) Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a simmer. Line a baking sheet with paper towels. Line a second baking sheet with parchment paper.

Because this recipe makes such a large quantity of gnocchi, your arm may get tired: An easy way to pipe the gnocchi is to place a large inverted pot, canister, or other container that is slightly higher than the pot on the right side of the pot (left side if you are left-handed) and set the filled pastry bag on it so that the tip extends over the side and the container serves as a resting place for the bag. Twist the end of the pastry bag to push the dough into the tip. (From time to time, as the bag empties, you will need to twist the end again.) As you squeeze the back of the bag with your right hand, hold a small knife in your left hand and cut off 1-inch lengths of dough, allowing the gnocchi to drop into the pot. Pipe about 24 gnocchi per batch. First, the gnocchi will sink in the pot. Keep the water temperature hot, but do not boil. Once the gnocchi float to the top, poach them for another 1 to 2 minutes, then remove them with a slotted spoon or skimmer and drain on the paper towel–lined baking sheet. Taste one to test the timing; it may still seem slightly undercooked in the center, but it will be cooked again. Repeat with the remaining dough. 
(I actually had help with this part, and my helper used scissors). *Important note: Do Not boil too many at a time. They are a bit fragile and will fall apart in the water if there are too many. Boil in batches.

When all the gnocchi have drained, place them in a single layer on the parchment-lined baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, or up to a day. Or, for longer storage, place the baking sheet in the freezer. Once the gnocchi have frozen solid, remove them from the baking sheet and place in a freezer bag in the freezer. Before using frozen gnocchi, spread them in a single layer on a baking sheet and defrost in the refrigerator for several hours.

That pretty much ends the original recipe's "prep" section (with several tweaks by yours truly). Before serving, I heated a non-stick frying pan, added a little butter and olive oil (just enough to coat the pan). The reason I use both is that buter is awesome, but has a lower burning temp, the oil tempers that a bit so you can have a medium heat without burning the butter, but still have the butter flavor. I then tossed the gnocchi (gently) with a little garlic salt and rosemary. This not only finishes the cooking and reheats them, but it only gives it a tiny bit of a crust and adds flavor. Amazing! 


Freshly boiled gnocchi

Finishing touches

Ahhhhhhh

At this point, the tender pillows of culinary affection, can be devoured. I did not serve with extra cheese, because there was plenty of flavor. I did, however, make a sauce to accompany the gnocchi that was delicious, but not totally necessary.
This is what I did:
Equal parts cream, beef broth, and cognac, about 2 T butter, with a pinch of salt, rosemary, thyme, and garlic. I then just let it cook down for an hour or so over low/medium heat. I sauteed about 2-2 1/2 C baby bella mushrooms (chopped), then added them to the sauce right before serving. 

Proof that I made sauce : )

This meal is somewhat less than low-fat, but for special occasions, you can't beat the flavors. We also served steamed asparagus, chicken-spinach-asiago sausage (store bought), and a napa cabbage salad. For dessert I served grilled pineapple rings with vanilla ice cream, and our homemade salted caramel sauce (see post "Salted Caramel"). We don't always get to cook like this, but since my brother from AK is in town...






Buon Appetito!







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